Hippie baby boomer idealism or increasingly relevant form of living? Annie Hastwell heads to a NSW commune set up in the heady 1970s to see how it has lasted 40 years, and why off the grid communities could re-emerge across Australia.
It began in 1973, the year of the Nimbin Aquarius Festival and an age when rebellion was in the air.
People my age—baby boomers—do not want to be institutionalised.
Often described as Australia's version of Woodstock, the counterculture festival celebrated sustainability and an alternate way of living.
A new generation was flexing its muscles and anything seemed possible, especially a way of life different to the safe suburbs of post-war Australia.
'Something really important happened at the Aquarius Festival,' says social historian Bill Metcalf, who has devoted his academic career to studying local and international communes.
'These disparate groups from around the country found themselves part of a movement.'
The festival spawned a rush of idealistic commune settlements. Thousands of young people jumped in their Kombis and headed for the lush valleys of the north coast of New South Wales to set up their own versions of utopia.
The rush proved short-lived, with most of the communities falling apart fairly quickly due to lack of planning and resources, or simply personality clashes.
'There was a great deal of naïveté with a lot of the groups in the early days,' says Metcalf.
'There was a belief that somehow social problems would resolve themselves by people just coming together and loving each other. Of course, they didn't.'
Some, however, took things more seriously.
In 1976, Jack O'Reilly and his friends bought 196 hectares of bush south of Ballina in northern New South Wales. The site came with its challenges.
Massive trees needed to be cleared before any building could take place and access was only possible via a steep, nerve-racking road.
The site had poor quality soil, and the local building inspector was ready to tell the group that what they were doing was illegal: rural planning laws at the time were designed around conventional farming, where only one dwelling per 100 hectares was permitted.
O'Reilly and his group formed a cooperative, fought hard to get the planning permission and regulation changes they needed, cut down trees and milled their own timber.
Forty years on, The Ridge, as it's known, is still there, with 12 off-grid houses, most built from local stone and timber, scattered through the bush. There is a central meeting place and several shared gardens.
Recently, a large group came together to celebrate four decades of the community.
Membership is fluid, and people have come and gone, but the overarching organisation of The Ridge has ensured its survival.
'We've had no serious disagreements, [just] lots of heated meetings,' says O'Reilly.
He says having a cooperative structure in which every member has an equal share and an equal vote has helped keep things workable.
Bill Metcalf agrees that communities that have stood the test of time, have done so through a serendipitous mix of a few rules, natural leadership and some control over who can join.
'Groups have to maintain boundaries, but they must be permeable, so you always need to have some mechanism to make sure people coming in share certain beliefs and passions.
'Otherwise, you're trying to form a community out of people who randomly met and the chances of that succeeding are very, very small.'
At The Ridge, potential new members are invited to a trial living period. If they decide it is for them, they have to be voted in by at least 80 per cent of the community.
Communes like The Ridge have paved the way for others to try communal living set ups, and since the heady '70s, several hundred have quietly sprung up all over Australia.
They range from strict and insular religious communities to eco-village-style spiritually aware groups, to 'groups that are together because they are just together'.
Most are in northern New South Wales, but other hotspots include Margaret River, the Adelaide Hills and Gippsland.
There's a common agricultural thread between those places, and Metcalf says it's no coincidence that communes tend to be located in dairy country.
'Dairy was the perfect industry to create land suitable for these groups, because the land had been stripped and it was hilly with good rainfall.'
The timing was fortunate. As dairy collapsed after the 1960s, such land became affordable for the communally minded.
But these days heading for the hills and setting up an alternative lifestyle is even easier.
'It's no longer a weird thing for local planning authorities, because they're used to these groups now, and where there are a number of them in one area they provide support for each other,' says Metcalf.
In the Maleny area in Queensland, alternative communities have even set up their own credit union.
Keeping a new generation around as the original occupants age is the next challenge, though.
'The kids grew up left the place and it seemed that we wouldn't have a continuity of generations, that we'd all die old in wheelchairs up here,' says Jack O'Reilly.
The problem seems to have solved itself. Jack's two sons have returned along with new, younger members, and now The Ridge rings with the sound of small children and new building projects.
So in an age that is both eco-aware and digitally connected, are such communities on the rise?
Bill Metcalf believes they are, and predicts the biggest increase will be with senior co-housing in both urban and rural areas, as older Australians seek cheaper, more fulfilling lifestyles.
'People my age, baby boomers, do not want to be institutionalised.
They came from the mountains, and kept to themselves. If you were lucky, you might have seen them frolicking in the hills under the glow of the buttery, golden hour sunshine that California does so well. Collectively, they were known as “The Brotherhood of the Sun,” and in the 1970s, they emerged as one of the most successful communes in US history. In a manner of speaking, that is, because if we’ve learned anything from our past investigations into communes and cults, it’s that these sort of things have an expiration date. Otherwise, things get ugly, which is why we were surprised to learn that the Brotherhood not only existed, but turned into “Sunburst Farms”: a multi million-dollar business. This is the story of how one man’s dream gave birth to a Californian Camelot, a trip steeped in idealism and salvation, complete with stallions, schooners, and firearms. But most of all, it’s a fascinating tale of what happens when peace, and making a profit, collide…
“We have one last store here in Solvang, [California],” she says, referring to the last vestige of what basically became hippie entrepreneurialism. Firearms, etc. aside, there’s something to be said about the commitment and devotion to the ideal of community and how long some followers are willing to carry that dream into the next generation. The media would have loved to see the entire commune brought to its knees – and indeed it was, on several occasions. Yet, Sunburst remains remarkable for avoiding the extremist fate so many predicted for counter-culture groups in the ’70s (selling out, or burning out). It was, and still is, a happy anomaly — and there’s no way to neatly tie up their story in a bittersweet bow, simply because it’s not finished being told.
Where have all the hippies gone?
Forty years after the love-in began, Damien Murphy catches up with the aged of Aquarius.
May 18, 2013 — 3.00am
Educated at Melbourne's high-caste Scotch College, a stockbroker with JB Were, an uncle the chairman of BHP, Michael Balderstone was once a long way from the rebellious spirit who kept Nimbin's original flame burning bright.
So maybe it is some sort of karma that the week the northern NSW town celebrates being put on the map by the 1973 Aquarius Festival, a NSW parliamentary committee recommended the medical use of cannabis for people suffering terminal illnesses.
Over the rainbow: Michael Balderstone, at home on the outskirts of Nimbin, runs the Hemp Embassy.CREDIT:PETER RAE
''Kismet,'' says Balderstone, who runs the Hemp Embassy in Nimbin's main drag. ''The medical use of marijuana should be a health issue, not a political one. I think 90 per cent of the public would support medical cannabis for people who are really sick.''
In May 1973, Balderstone was discovering another way of getting head lice hanging out in a Nepalese village, as he puts it, while about 2000 or more mainly middle-class young Australian men and women travelled north to a dying dairy village in the Big Scrub. For 10 days they partied hard. They sang, danced, listened to poets, watched street theatre, built dome houses, smoked pot, swam naked and restored Nimbin to life.
The festival aimed to celebrate alternative thinking and sustainable lifestyles, however the celebrants' propensity to remove clothes and smoke pot openly led to the mainstream media labelling the whole thing hippie heaven.
Surfers opened up the NSW north coast to southern eyes. Nimbin lay down the template that turned Byron Bay, Bangalow and Mullumbimby into high property price New Age havens.
Nimbin residents might be living as alternatives in communes and shacks in surrounding bush, but they have done little to disabuse the idea they live in Hippie Central. There's the annual Mardi Grass, and the shops lining Cullen Street are full of the colour, paraphernalia and grunge of a Haight-Ashbury snapshot, circa 1967. Artists who first painted the town psychedelic in 1973, such as Hazelbrook's Vernon Treweeke, have returned to touch up their work. Balderstone's Hemp Embassy, a non-profit venture spruiking cannabis reform, conveniently located next door to the Nimbin Hotel, seems to be the focus. ........................
Hailing from Victoria's Western District, Balderstone tried his hand at jackarooing and stockbroking before being sent to London where he discovered a new person. ........................
He returned to Melbourne via the Greek islands and Afghanistan, and opened a bric-a-brac shop in then hip Greville Street, Prahran.
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''He lived in one of those dilapidated Toorak mansions,'' recalls a contemporary. ''They had a sheep. Come Saturday morning, they'd take it for a walk down Toorak Road to upset the poodles.'' ........................
Balderstone brought a similar style to Nimbin when he purchased two shares in a commune and returned permanently in the early 1980s. His lavatory offers a splendid up-close view of Mount Warning's nightcap tip.
By the time Balderstone arrived, Nimbin was staggering under the weight of self-imposed freedom.
In 1972, John Allen, then the Australian Union of Students cultural director, watched an ABC Four Corners program on dying country towns featuring Nimbin. He and fellow union office holder Graeme Dunstan (a Duntrooner who lay in front of the visiting US president Lyndon Johnson's Sydney motorcade) were looking for a place to hold an alternative festival. Since 1966 there had been three such festivals staged at universities; Woodstock loomed large and rock festivals at Ourimbah and Sunbury were hits. ........................
''There was tension between those who wanted music and those who wanted culture,'' says Allen, an event management lecturer at the University of Technology, Sydney. ''Many young people then were the children of people who had grown up in the country. There was a conscious move back to the land. Nimbin sort of naturally suggested itself.''
Artist Treweeke who had seen psychedelia in London and brought it to the Sydney art world in 1967, recalls being told that local Aborigines had cursed the place after earlier settlers had taken their land. ''The curse was that the valley would not prosper, and we had found an almost deserted town, most of the shops were boarded up and unused. Farm houses were empty. We rented them for about $2 a week and we bought the empty shops,'' he says.
Allen says few originals stayed: ''Most of the people who took part in the festival left town. They had their own scenes already. Those who stayed, didn't, although they mightn't thank me for saying it.''
Some say Australia finally acquired the '60s zeitgeist with the election of the Whitlam government. Nimbin, a magnet for freewheelers, became shorthand for sex, drugs and rock'n'roll .
But the drug royal commissions of the 1970s did their job and pot dried up. Dealers opportunistically loaded heroin onto the market and Nimbin suffered greatly. The town filled with runaways, children living in a haze. In a nod to Clockwork Orange, locals called them ''droogs''. A decade ago, hollow-eyed kids still sidled up to tourists pushing grass.
Balderstone says there were many mental health problems but Nimbin has cleaned up its act. ''It's a place you can hang, and that made it hard for ourselves,'' he says. ........................
With festival alumni pulling into town, nearby Lismore has renamed itself ''Lovemore'' for the anniversary party. Thousands are expected with the weekend's fine weather. There is a masquerade ball next Saturday and Southern Cross University is conducting a two-day conference Aquarius and Beyond. "Aquarius has resonated well beyond 1973,'' lecturer Rob Garbutt says. ''Its ideas adapted and altered as time went on, yet the Aquarius spirit - hope for the future - is still clearly alive. Nimbin became a place where ideas mixed and morphed to create something new.''
Benny Zable is one original who kept the faith. Melbourne raised, he worked on a kibbutz before arriving in 1973 with a dance workshop that performed H. G. Wells' Time Machine in Nimbin Town Hall. ........................''We didn't know it then, but we were sustainability trailblazers,'' he says.
Zable helped launch a sister village relationship with Woodstock in upstate New York. Nathan Koenig, of the Woodstock Museum, is in town this month showing locals his movie about them, Woodstock Downunder.
''Hey guys,'' Koenig says, ''You know what some Sunday paper called us? The aged of Aquarius.''
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